A quartz movement is powered by a battery (energy source), with a quartz crystal regulator (time-measuring device). The electric tension from both the battery and the integrated circuit causes the crystal to vibrate consistently at very high frequency - at 32’768 times per second. This gives the movement almost perfect precision (only a few seconds per month variation). Quartz watch dials can display hands (analogue), numbers (digital), or both.

Troubleshooting your quartz watch

• The second hand is jumping every 4 seconds

Certain quartz watches have the added security of an end of life battery indicator (EOL). When the battery runs down, the second hand starts making four-second jumps but your watch continues to display the exact time until the battery is exhausted. Ask about battery replacement.

• The second hand isn’t hitting the markers

Don’t worry if your watch’s second hand isn’t aligned to the markers on the dial. This is normal and is due to the play required for proper working of the movement gear train. You may notice a different level of side shake for each second impulse.

An automatic movement is a mechanical watch movement that is wound by the action of the wearer’s wrist. An oscillating weight (rotor) pivots freely around a spindle, and each movement helps to wind the mainspring (energy source), charging the power reserve. The regulator of the watch is a balance wheel with a hairspring that vibrates 6 – 8 times a second. An automatic movement comprises over 70 parts and the smallest of these is no thicker than a human hair (0.07mm). All of these mechanical components work continually in unison, creating the effect of a sweeping second hand rather than a ticking one. While it is less precise than a quartz movement (by a few minutes per month), an automatic movement is the ultimate example of Swiss watchmaking expertise and tradition.

Troubleshooting your automatic watch

• Why does my automatic watch not keep accurate time?

The accuracy of watches depends on several factors, including the type of movement and conditions of use. The following list shows average tolerance given by the Swiss movement suppliers (based on normal conditions, and full power reserve for automatics):

Quartz movement: between -1 and +11 seconds per month
Standard automatic: between -5 and +20 seconds per day
Chronometer: between -4 and +6 seconds per day

A watchmaker can carry out a maintenance service to adjust the timing rate of an automatic movement if it is performing outside these tolerances.

An electro-mechanical movement combines the complexity of a mechanical movement with the precision of a quartz movement. Consisting of no fewer than 250 components, it receives its power from a battery.

• Why does the minute-hand shift slightly on my watch?

This slight movement of the minute hand is necessary for the proper functioning of the watch. It is a result of the play between the wheels in the mechanism’s gear train, which allows them to turn freely, and function properly. It does not affect the watch’s timekeeping, and can vary from one watch to another.

The power reserve is the amount of power a watch accumulates in order to keep the watch or chronograph, some automatic movements have a power reserve of about 42 – 48 hours depending on the model. As it is the action of the wearer’s wrist that winds up the movement and maintains maximum power, the power reserve will begin to drain if there is not enough movement, causing the watch to stop. You can recharge it by turning the crown clockwise, unscrewed or in neutral position, (minimum 40 times, 100 times. This will start the watch, giving it sufficient power reserve to function normally. You can’t over wind an automatic watch.

A chronograph is a watch fitted with an additional function which can be used by operating the pushers (start/stop/reset) to measure continuous or interrupted periods of time.

Simple time measurement: This function measures any period of time from a few seconds to 12 hours, even fractions of seconds, depending on the model.

Additional time measurement: This function measures several consecutive times by adding them together to obtain a cumulative total.

Chronographs watches may include:

Tachymeter: Depending on the model, some chronographs include a tachymeter scale on the dial flange. This indicates average speed over a given distance. Activate the chronograph at the start of the known distance, and then once you have reached the destination i.e. 1 mile/km, stop the chronograph. The second-hand points to your average speed on the tachymeter scale. This only works at speeds of over 60 m h/km h and for distances of 1 mile or 1 km.

Specificities for some mechanical chronographs

Oscillating pinion: Patented by Heuer in 1887, and still used today in the mechanical chronographs of most Swiss watch brands, the oscillating pinion comprises a moving rod and two pinions. This mechanism improves upon the old two-wheel system, allowing the chronograph to function more efficiently, and ensuring the instantaneous start of the chronograph. When the chronograph is not in use, it isn’t connected to the movement, once the chronograph is engaged the power from the gear train turns the oscillating pinion, connecting the chronograph to the movement’s power reserve, and starting the chronograph.
If you have a watch that has two separate power reserves, i.e. one for the movement, and one for the chronograph, then the oscillating pinion is not required, as it does not need to be connected to the movement.

Column wheel: The column wheel smoothly and precisely coordinates the start, stop, and return-to-zero functions of the chronograph.

Troubleshooting your chronograph:

• Why is the second-hand of my chronograph stuttering as it moves around the dial?

This movement requires a certain amount of play in the wheels. In order to regulate the timekeeping, the hand sometimes jumps very minimally and at a very high speed. This gives the impression that it is stuttering as the hand moves round. The performance of the watch is not affected, ensuring its precise timing capabilities.

• Is it possible to activate my chronograph underwater?

There is a risk to the water-resistance of your timepiece if the push buttons are manipulated incorrectly. So we highly recommend that when in contact with water, avoid using the buttons, and make sure that your crown is correctly screwed in, or in the neutral position (depending on model).

Screw-down crown: A screw-down crown doubly ensures water-resistance with an extra seal that becomes watertight when the crown is screwed down. It also ensures that the watch cannot change function by accident. A screw-down crown usually has 3 positions, each responsible for changing different aspects of the watch: date, time, etc.

Helium-release valve: (available on 500 meter models) When at great depths, to aid respiration, professional divers use a diving bell filled with a gas mixture containing a high proportion of helium. As helium atoms are the smallest natural gas particles, they can enter the wristwatch even if it is waterproof. When resurfacing, the high pressure inside the watch case from the helium can cause damage to the watch, for example popping the crystal. The helium release valve is activated automatically when the difference between inner and outer pressure reaches a critical level. The valve then releases the helium trapped in the watch case.

Non-automatic mechanical watch: This type of movement has to be wound every day. Winding is complete when you feel the crown resist. Avoid over winding – you’ll damage the watch mechanism.

Automatic watch: As it is the action of the wearer’s wrist that wind the movement and maintain maximum power, the power reserve will begin to drain if there is not enough movement, causing the watch to stop. You can wind it by turning the crown - unscrewed or in neutral position – clockwise 40 times (100 times for the V4). This will start the watch, giving it sufficient power reserve to function normally.

Avoid changing the date between 8pm and 4am. The date-change mechanism is already engaged and a manual intervention could damage the movement.

A bezel is part of the case, attached on top of the middle case, which generally holds the crystal. The name is often used to describe a turning ring on the case that is marked with a scale intended for various functions: it makes it possible to preselect the time or the display of other time zones, etc.

• Why is my turning bezel loose/turning in both directions?

Bezels operate by means of a ratchet mechanism. With intensive use, the small metal spring can become worn, resulting in a slightly loose bezel, or one that turns in both directions. This can be easily repaired by replacing the bezel spring.

A Chronometer is a certified, high-precision timepiece that meets the stringent standards of the C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres / Swiss Office for Chronometric Controls). Each movement is tested for 15 days, in 5 positions and at 3 temperatures while operating under very demanding conditions. To earn the title of Chronometer, a mechanical movement, either automatic or manual, must meet the 7 criteria defined by ISO 3159 standard and applied by the C.O.S.C. Whatever the external conditions, it must maintain an accuracy of between -4/+6 seconds per day.

Before using your water-resistant watch in water, there are several ways to ensure its protection:

• Verify its water-resistance with a Service Centre within past 12 months.
• Ensure the crown is fully pushed in (and depending on the model, screwed down) against the case in order to preserve its water-resistance.
• Leather straps are not advisable as they can be deformed/discolored by water. For frequent or prolonged use in water, we recommend a metal bracelet or rubber strap.
• After exposure to salt water, rinse the watch in fresh water then dry it.
• The table below indicates appropriate activities for the water-resistance of your watch. These figures are meant as a guide only, and don’t show maximum immersion depths.
  

• Shocks. Although most Swiss watches are tested for impact resistance, you should still avoid violent shocks to your watch. Apart from damaging its appearance, this can cause premature wear in materials and components, which may affect the performance of the watch.
   
• Magnetic fields. Avoid leaving your watch close to equipment that can produce strong magnetic fields such as speakers, refrigerators, mobile phones, or magnets on bags or boxes, etc. as these may affect the performance of your watch. We also recommend that you remove your watch when you go through the body scanner at the airport.

To determine whether your mechanical watch is magnetized, place it near a traditional compass (not an electronical one) and see if the needle starts to move around. If it does, your watch is magnetized. In such cases we recommend you take it to a Service Centre, where they will put your watch on a special device to restore it to working condition.
On a quartz watch, the effects are temporary: the watch stops when in contact with the magnetic field, continuing again when away from the field. But effects on an automatic watch are more damaging: the watch could stop altogether or have timekeeping difficulties until it is expertly repaired. Try and keep your watch at least 5cm away from magnetic devices.

Magnetic field of less than 60 Gauss (magnetic field measurement unit) will not affect your watch. Any stronger fields may disturb its performance.

• Extreme temperatures. In cold conditions keep your watch on your wrist so that it remains close to body temperature. Avoid exposing your watch to extreme temperatures (above 60°C/140°F, below 0°C/32°F) or to sudden temperature changes. A sharp change in temperature can cause condensation under the crystal of your watch. This will disappear shortly and does not affect your watch’s performance. If the condensation persists, please contact your Service Centre.
   
• Strong sunshine. We recommend avoiding direct exposure to the sun’s rays because the temperature of the watch can rise above 60°C, risking damage to the movement. Prolonged UV exposure can also alter the colors of some parts (leather strap, dial).
   
• Chemical products. Contact with chemical products (solvents, detergents, cosmetics, etc.) may damage the external part of the watch as well as the water-resistance gaskets.
   
• Sand. Sand includes small minerals and can scratch the anti-reflective coating on a sapphire crystal, or the steel case/bracelet.
  ​
• Water. If you’re going to be in humid or wet conditions:
  • Check that the crown is fully pushed in (and screwed down, depending on the model) against the case.
  • Ensure that your watch is water-resistant, and has passed a water-resistance check during the last 12 months at one of Service Centers.
  • You should avoid humidity.
  • If you have a leather strap, we recommend that you prevent it from coming in contact with water, which can discolor or deform leather.
  • After exposure to salt water, rinse the watch carefully in fresh water then dry it.

A non-radioactive material called Luminous used to  increase the readability of display elements on your watch. It works by absorbing light and re-emitting it in darkness. The length of time it can produce this effect depends on how long it has been charged by exposure to natural or artificial light.

Erasing scratches from a watch requires highly skilled craftsmen. The process involves removing a very fine layer of metal from the surface.

Refurbishing also depends on the finish/shape of the model, and the depth of the scratches. The table below lists the different watch finishes and whether or not it is possible to polish them.

Type of finish: refurbishment possible?

• Steel: YES
• Steel and gold: YES
• Steel and gold plated: NO
• Gold YES
• PVD: NO
• Titanium: YES
• Platinum: YES

Some watches  are fitted with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that is not affected by general wear and tear, but extremely hard material like diamond and intense rough treatment may scratch it. Some models are coated with an anti-reflective substance, a thin layer on the crystal, which eliminates reflected light, ensuring optimum readability. This coating is susceptible to scratches and can therefore give the impression that the crystal is scratched.

We will change the color of dial if this model exists in our collection. We cannot create an entirely new model therefore a dial change is subject to technical authorization. A new case back would need to be fitted to ensure that the model reference corresponds to the reference for the dial.

In order to maintain the shiny appearance of watch and avoid any early wear and tear, we recommend that you avoid wearing another bracelet near your watch.

Leather is a natural material that is stabilized by tanning but its ageing process depends heavily on conditions of use; a leather strap can have a lifetime of several months to several years. The life expectancy of a leather strap is affected by factors like frequency of use, exposure to water, perspiration, etc. Frequent immersion in water and regular showers should be avoided.

Alligator leathers come from breeding farms and are assembled, sewn, cut, or padded by highly qualified craftsmen. These leathers fully respect the CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Specifies of Wild Fauna and Flora) rules. It is an international agreement between governments which aim to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival.

For allergy sufferers, we recommend titanium watches with titanium bracelets. Or leather straps with antiallergenic linings.

The truth is that no watch is waterproof. There is always a limit to how much water pressure a watch can handle. The term "waterproof" implies that a watch can't leak under any circumstance—that no moisture will permeate the case and get into the movement. However, under certain circumstances anything can leak. Therefore, in the watch industry, we refer to a watch's ability to withstand water pressure as water resistance.

A watch stamped with "Water Resistant" means that it is humidity-protected. It can endure a bit of water splashes from washing your hands or being caught in the rain. However, water resistance does not mean you should swim or shower with your watch on.

Water is the biggest enemy of a watch. If you go swimming or play sports, you should have your watch checked for an accurate reading of its water resistance levels every year. The outside case may look rugged and big, but the movement is very tiny and very delicate. The only thing that stands between your watch and water is a small gasket, a tiny O-ring that is usually made of rubber or silicon. Gaskets form seals around the stem of the crown, pushers, and correctors and sit inside the case and the crystal. Over time, they dry out and lose elasticity and the ability to form a proper seal. This explains why regular testing is so important for maintaining the water resistance of a watch.

These are the measurements used by the watch industry to denote the amount of pressure a watch can withstand, not the depth to which the watch can be worn. ATM stands for atmosphere. 1 atmosphere is equal to about 10 meters or roughly 30 feet. A bar is just another way of stating atmospheres.

Diving watches are specifically engineered for heavy water usage and can withstand depths of at least 200 meters. They have minimal openings for water to permeate through with only one screw-down crown, sturdy case, extra heavy gaskets around the crystal, and extra heavy gaskets around the case back. If you are planning to regularly swim, dive, surf or boat while wearing your watch, a diving watch is an excellent option to consider.

Two materials which are compatible:

•  Polished, hardened or burnished steel with ruby; 
• Polished, hardened or burnished steel with brass or bronze.

The balance wheel is to a fine, mechanical watch what a pendulum is to a grandfather’s clock or a mantle clock. Just like a pendulum, the balance wheel is a weighted device that swings back and forth, inside of the watch mechanism. Each swing of the balance wheel creates a tick or a beat and advances the gears that drive the face of the watch, making the hands move one position.

The balance wheel is part of the harmonic (or rotary) oscillating mechanism of a watch, a grouping that also includes the balance spring. The balance spring (also called the hairspring) is responsible for returning the balance wheel to the center of the watch after each tick.

 The balance wheel also comes into play when measuring the accuracy of a mechanical watch. The beats per hour (BPH), a universal measurement for time pieces, refers to the half-swings the balance wheel makes per hour. Watches made prior to the 1970s have a BPH of 18,000. Today’s watches beat more quickly. You’ll find 21,600 BPH watches, 8,800 BPH watches and even a few 36,000 BPH watches. The best balance wheel watches vary only a few seconds in a day.

Virtually every clock or watch made since the 14th century (when mechanical clocks were invented) has contained a balance wheel.

Shock – resistant system has been devised in order to avoid the balance-staff pivots breaking if the watch is jarred violently and the principle here consists of causing the shock to be absorbed by a more robust part of the balance staff than the pivots: it is the pivot shanks which will hit against the body of the device. All the jewels subsequently revert to their normal positions.

The lubricants used by watchmakers should have the following qualities:

1. Chemical stability
2. Non-corrosive properties for components
3. Non-creep stability
4. Low temperature stability
5. Low volatility
6. Stable and low coefficient of friction
7. Prevention of wear

Maintaining a stable and high amplitude irrespective of the humidity

Many qualities are required of one tiny drop of oil

What lubricants are available to the watchmaker?

Synthetic oils.

Synthetic oils were first produced in 1950 by a complex combination of chemicals. They can be categorized into several groups. The first synthetic oils produced satisfied the first five requirements listed above. In contrast, no one seemed interested in the lubricative properties per se which are listed under 6, 7 and 8.studies in this connection were only carried out at the end of the 1970s. These synthetic oils have been constantly improved with the aim of finding a product which lasts for as long as possible.

Grease.

This is a combination of oil and a fibrous soap which serves as a sponge to retain the oil. There is also a type of grease used in watchmaking which is made of oil and molybdenum disulphide power (MoS2) as a binding agent.

ETA is the largest supplier of movements in Switzerland. Currently about 80% of Swiss watches have ETA movements. ETA is owned by the Swatch Group conglomerate. Eta was formed in 1983 with the merger of ASUAG and SSIH. Prior to that ETA was Ebauches SA which was an alliance of the top three players in Swiss mechanical movements: A. Schild SA (AS or ASSA), Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF) and A. Michel AG. Ebauches SA also absorbed another 31 ebauch producers.

ETA is best known for the production of two automatic movements with date, models 2824 and 2892. They are very similar in design. Both are 25.6 mm in diameter, however the 2892 is almost 28% thinner, being 3.6mm thick versus 4.6mm for the 2824. Both movements are used by other movement manufacturers as the tractor (power base and time source) for many complications like triple date moon-phase, chronograph, big date, power reserve, etc.

The 2892 (2892-A2) seems to have been given priority by making it more efficient. Its oscillating weight is better engineered with a larger support for the ball bearing races, which gives it better shock protection. It is almost always finished nicely with perlage and Geneva stripes. This movement is used by many high-end brands. Often, high-end brands like IWC, Girard Perregaux and Frank Muller will assemble the movements in house and replace some of the critical parts from the escapement to the mainspring to gain tighter tolerances. ETA uses the 2892 as the tractor for other movements like the 2893 with a second time-zone hand and the 2894 chronograph.

The 2824 (2824/2) is no slouch itself. When regulated correctly it will keep just as good of time as the 2892. As mentioned, the main difference I see is that it is 1mm thicker than the 2892. One can order the watch finished as nicely as you are willing to pay. It has a strong mainspring and makes a great tractor for complication modules that are added to the top of the movement. This movement can be found in Tudors, Breitlings, Tag Heuers and many other brands.

How does a chronometer grade 2892 or 2824 compare to the competition? We think they keep equivalent time to a Rolex automatic. Some of the high-end brands we have experience with are actually more finicky, fragile and do not keep as good of time as the ETA and Rolex tried and true workhorses. These other watches often have wide deviations in timekeeping depending on what position they are in. The ETAs and Rolexes are often within a few seconds from the slowest to the fastest deviation.

Recently, ETA attempted to discontinue supplying movement blanks to companies outside the Swatch group. Due to their dominant market position, a Swiss anti-trust court forced ETA to continue producing and supplying movements. ETA was allowed to reduce production by a certain amount each year to allow smaller companies to find new suppliers for movement blanks. ETA has already begun reducing the number of movements that they are delivering to companies outside the Swatch group. Eventually, the company will only provide movements to favored customers and other companies within the Swatch group.

When most people hear the term sapphire, images of a beautiful, deep blue, refined gemstone comes to mind. However, according to the Gemological Institute of America, “When no impurities giving it color are present, sapphire can make a wonderful optical window material since it’s transparent throughout the entire visible range.”

Sapphire glasses are scratch-proof and much tougher than normal glasses. A sapphire glass is therefore normally used to protect the dial.

Methods have been devised for machining the rim of shaped watch glasses.

Fitting the glass to the bezel requires great precision in the machining of the glass. A plastic gasket or glue is also needed.

French chemist Auguste Verneuil is credited with developing the process for creating the synthetic material known as sapphire crystals. In Verneuil’s process, alumina powder is deposited into an oxyhydroxen flame which creates the sapphire-like material that’s identical to the natural gemstone, except it is created without the laws which offer the natural gemstone its color variations.

Sapphire crystal has a really high melting temperature at 2040 degrees, is highly resistant to scratching and is much stronger than the materials commonly found in regular glass windows or optical lenses. Therefore, sapphire crystal is used in the production of high end watches, in shatter-resistant windows for armored cars and in grocery store bar code scanners because of its scratch-resistance and durability.

The rotor, a catalyst to the modern wristwatch, is a self-winding mechanism that was invented by Swiss watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Perrelet around 1770. Originally, the rotor self-winding mechanism was used predominantly in pocket watches, which when first invented, had to be wound for upwards of 15 minutes in order to operate for eight days as the watch’s only source of energy. Eventually, automatic winding was introduced in mechanical watches, which could subsequently store up to two days of reserve energy from manual winding in addition to its automatic functioning power.

From a functional standpoint, the rotor, works to power a mechanical watch’s spiral mainspring. This then activates the internal gears, which in turn move the hands of the watch. Like a manually wound watch, the spring in an automatic watch eventually loses energy without winding. The watch then requires manual winding or it will cease to work. This issue was solved by the introduction of the quartz watch, which many people found to sacrifice artistry for accuracy and functionality.

The rotor is, in many ways, key to the modern watch’s functioning. The peak in popularity for automatic mechanical watches came in the 1960s as they became more widely adopted. Up to that point, the main obstacle to such development was the weight and size of a standard rotor, which was eventually squeezed into the inner workings of wristwatches.

Consequently, this is why most modern watches are much thicker than pocket watches. With this said, modern watchmakers have still managed to maintain the classic, relative size of most mechanical watches albeit with a bit more girth to them. This, of course, is not to forget the popularity of the rotor’s quartz counterpart, which ultimately overshadowed mechanical watches in the 1970s and 1980s. However, while quartz may offer a more efficient and accurate watch, there is little artistry to be found away from the rotor of a mechanical watch.

The rotor of and its fellow mechanical workings have recently made a comeback, as more watch owners are using, and subsequently paying homage to the classic beauty and elegance of mechanical watches.

Synthetic rubies.

Rubies, and in particular synthetic rubies, are the hardest stones after diamonds. They can therefore only be worked with diamond tools or powders, or a laser beam.

There is very little wear. A pivot which turns in a ruby bearing will encounter a minimum of friction .the use of rubies in watches therefore provides a considerable increase in precision and life. Another important advantage of the ruby is its homogeneity .it can be highly polished, which again reduces the coefficient of friction. Synthetic rubies expand hardly at all. They are not affected by changes in temperature, are not corroded by acids and do not conduct electricity .Like sapphires, rubies belong to the corundum family which is characterized by its rhombohedric hexagonal crystallization system .synthetic rubies are made from extremely pure aluminum oxide (alumina).

Characteristics of a synthetic ruby

Hardness

On the Mohs scale                              9

Hardness

On the Knoop scale (mean)              2000

 Dry coefficient of friction

On steel (minimum)                            0.1

Melting point                                       2050 C

Density                                                  3.99

Refractive index                                  1.76 – 1.77

Drilling a watch jewel using a laser beam

The higher the frequency, of a timepiece the more accurate the timekeeping.

In the early days of electronics, watchmakers tried to raise the frequency of the balance and hairspring in mechanical watches with the exception of special chronographs, 5 Hz (i.e. 36,000 vib/h), proved to be the maximum frequency obtainable in view of the problems caused by wear and lubrication.

It was the invention of the integrated circuit, however, using a quartz oscillator of 32,768 Hz, which proved to be the major development in this field. Thanks to electronics it was at last possible to divide this frequency, within a very small space, to provide a totally electronic display or to run a stepping motor which could drive a gear train and a conventional analogue display mechanism

.